after a return to la paz por un poco joviality, said goodbye to some jungle dwelling friends, promising to meet in another world with green hills for cheddar and cider. i took a swiss, italian princess and headed for lake titicaca, the highest lake in the world.
the princess is legendary and the rest of my time will e lacking when our paths divide.
isla del sol did as it says with tranquillity and nongringofied style, moving fast we bussed it to puno, peru, to see the floating islands, made of reeds and the houses on top of them too, and the boats, everything was made of these reeds, quite incredible.
a few ruins, a few nice new friends, good food and a few too many pisco sours later kate did a throwing herself off a balcony trick, no harm done, well possibly just to the pride.
Sunday, May 28, 2006
pampas
after 1 nights "rest" in a hostel in our destination town without much rest we´re back on the boat to see the pampus.
from go it was a feast for the eyes; aligators, exotic birds, strange man sized hamsters called frank, caimans, monkeys of all kinds and dolphins in grey and pink! phenomenal!
nights around the campfire with a equally good group of travellers, guides and locals and of course mosquitoes to complete the mix.
so good to be back in the hot and amongst the trees travelling by boat, seeing the sunset and rise and basically not missing a moment of the glorious outside world.
Monday, May 22, 2006
jungle
more death road action, skimming the cliff edge on the bus to the port, through protestors, deep in the forest marching for their right to grow coca and into our long boat, home for the next 3 days.
wide open river, rainforest climbing both sides to set up camp on a patch of beach, sleeping under mosquito nets in the open air, eating and drinking round the fire and generally living out my dreams.
the jungles resources inspire me and i want to know more about these plants and the secrets they hold.
at night the stars fill more space than the darkness and offer their own wisdom. we pass through communities living a dreamy humid existance, others under shelters on the beaches searching for gold and communities that are clearly struggling too, without schools and much help from the world around.
the first night shines for me, 6 months on the road, full moon, fire feast, stars, jungle, sand and good company and the sound of the river lulling us to sleep in the wee hours
Saturday, May 20, 2006
san pedro prison
a book written about a liverpudlian in san pedro prison, la paz, the corruption, the eternal system, the classes and bosses within the gates inspires many to view the inside, however it proved more difficult than at first it seemed.
when the brit featured in marching powder, the book, was there he took tourists on tours around the prison, for gifts it would seem. since he has left they are strictly anti tourist.
we took 3names from the british embassy and attempted to visit those people but were met by oposition at every point.
spending the time trying and waiting was an eye opener.. children ran in and out, women in traditional dress and bowler hats queued, filing in and out, younger women ran out crying to have a fag and waltzed back in.
men were lead into secure cars, mostly with handcuffs on but some were just held by there shirt collars!
it was frustrating not having a chance to see this famously corrupt prison, but solely observing this other way of life was something else.
when the brit featured in marching powder, the book, was there he took tourists on tours around the prison, for gifts it would seem. since he has left they are strictly anti tourist.
we took 3names from the british embassy and attempted to visit those people but were met by oposition at every point.
spending the time trying and waiting was an eye opener.. children ran in and out, women in traditional dress and bowler hats queued, filing in and out, younger women ran out crying to have a fag and waltzed back in.
men were lead into secure cars, mostly with handcuffs on but some were just held by there shirt collars!
it was frustrating not having a chance to see this famously corrupt prison, but solely observing this other way of life was something else.
death road conquered
64km, down 3600m in altitude, i tackled the most dangerous road in the world!
breathtaking views along with breathtaking close calls with cliff edges and lorries stacked full of people. we stayed on the cliff edge throughout with sheer drops of 90m beside us and came out buzzing bruised, vey bruised!
what can't you buy in la paz
the bus pulls into uroru where i've promised myself a room of my own and a quiet half day of absorbtion and investigation while the other travellers head straight on to la paz (the pseudo capital city). the taxi driver asks me if i'm travelling solita(all on my little own) then asks "no tiene miedo?" i say no of course but in truth its clear i do get scared, sometimes i'm filled with fear and not always unfounded but i reap the benefits of travelling alone and i feel those now.
i discovered fast that to be alone is preferrable by far to being witrh someone who makes you feel lonely.
well as promised i have a large room to myself in a lady's house, with 3 beautiful dogs and a toilet than you can flush toilet paper down, how novel!!!
i'm looking foward to parties, prisons, actual extreme bike riding and witches markets in la paz.
but tonight its me, my goodself y los perros... bliss.
my treat
the bus pulls into uroru where i've promised myself a room of my own and a quiet half day of absorbtion and investigation while the other travellers head straight on to la paz (the pseudo capital city). the taxi driver asks me if i'm travelling solita(all on my little own) then asks "no tiene miedo?" i say no of course but in truth its clear i do get scared, sometimes i'm filled with fear and not always unfounded but i reap the benefits of travelling alone and i feel those now.
i discovered fast that to be alone is preferrable by far to being witrh someone who makes you feel lonely.
well as promised i have a large room to myself in a lady's house, with 3 beautiful dogs and a toilet than you can flush toilet paper down, how novel!!!
i'm looking foward to parties, prisons, actual extreme bike riding and witches markets in la paz.
but tonight its me, my goodself y los perros... bliss.
i discovered fast that to be alone is preferrable by far to being witrh someone who makes you feel lonely.
well as promised i have a large room to myself in a lady's house, with 3 beautiful dogs and a toilet than you can flush toilet paper down, how novel!!!
i'm looking foward to parties, prisons, actual extreme bike riding and witches markets in la paz.
but tonight its me, my goodself y los perros... bliss.
the miners of potosi
highest city in the world, i could barely take in enough air for one lung.
not a startling city in my experience, huge markets, beautiful food but potosi was once a rich city, famous for its silver mines.
we crawled in, pasting ourselves to the slimy walls to let carts of minerals out. the miners/workers, ranging from 11 to 60 years old, work a minimum of 6hours, 6 days a week in the mine earninga fixed salary of next to nothing or a cut of what they mine.
sometimes they chip away at the arches of rock that support the tunnels they are working in if they're are not getting good results elsewhere to earn enough.
all day they dont eat, believing its bad luck within the mines. instead they chew coca, smoke and drink 96% alcohol, praying at all times to the devil for good luck and safety.
the greatest cause of death in the mines is falling drunk down shafts and there is no belief in safety precautions, for us included.
after 10years many are left with 20% lung capacity and when retired must move to lower lands as they cannot stay adjusted to the altitude.
we attempted to pull tons of minerals up the 15metre shafts, i nearly managed send myself down the shaft instead.
there's a mixture of pride, complacency and hoplessness within the mines but mostly a lack of knowledge of any alternative
not a startling city in my experience, huge markets, beautiful food but potosi was once a rich city, famous for its silver mines.
we crawled in, pasting ourselves to the slimy walls to let carts of minerals out. the miners/workers, ranging from 11 to 60 years old, work a minimum of 6hours, 6 days a week in the mine earninga fixed salary of next to nothing or a cut of what they mine.
sometimes they chip away at the arches of rock that support the tunnels they are working in if they're are not getting good results elsewhere to earn enough.
all day they dont eat, believing its bad luck within the mines. instead they chew coca, smoke and drink 96% alcohol, praying at all times to the devil for good luck and safety.
the greatest cause of death in the mines is falling drunk down shafts and there is no belief in safety precautions, for us included.
after 10years many are left with 20% lung capacity and when retired must move to lower lands as they cannot stay adjusted to the altitude.
we attempted to pull tons of minerals up the 15metre shafts, i nearly managed send myself down the shaft instead.
there's a mixture of pride, complacency and hoplessness within the mines but mostly a lack of knowledge of any alternative
...cont
then the last day, just to blow it all out of perspective we drove into the salt planes, where it seemed as if you were on a boat, or floating, the white brilliance stinging your eyes.
the salt was thick enough to land a small plane on, miles of it, and nothing else to be seen, the pale blue sky merging into it.
after so much nothing an island emerged on the horizon, la isla de pescadores (a name that makes no sense.) the island is full of rock caves and huge cactuses up to 12metres tall and 1200 years old and a family of rabbit like creatrures with squirrels tails and a kangaroos jump. tables of salt, chairs of cactus wood.
a world of wonders.
the salt was thick enough to land a small plane on, miles of it, and nothing else to be seen, the pale blue sky merging into it.
after so much nothing an island emerged on the horizon, la isla de pescadores (a name that makes no sense.) the island is full of rock caves and huge cactuses up to 12metres tall and 1200 years old and a family of rabbit like creatrures with squirrels tails and a kangaroos jump. tables of salt, chairs of cactus wood.
a world of wonders.
cont...
then the last day, just to blow it all out of perspective we drove into the salt planes, where it seemed as if you were on a boat, or floating, the white brilliance stinging your eyes.
the salt was thick enough to land a small plane on, miles of it, and nothing else to be seen, the pale blue sky merging into it.
after so much nothing an island emerged on the horizon, la isla de pescadores (a name that makes no sense.) the island is full of rock caves and huge cactuses up to 12metres tall and 1200 years old and a family of rabbit like creatrures with squirrels tails and a kangaroos jump. tables of salt, chairs of cactus wood.
a world of wonders.
the salt was thick enough to land a small plane on, miles of it, and nothing else to be seen, the pale blue sky merging into it.
after so much nothing an island emerged on the horizon, la isla de pescadores (a name that makes no sense.) the island is full of rock caves and huge cactuses up to 12metres tall and 1200 years old and a family of rabbit like creatrures with squirrels tails and a kangaroos jump. tables of salt, chairs of cactus wood.
a world of wonders.
Thursday, May 04, 2006
beyond words
no photos i´ve taken or words i can write could impress upon you what i have seen and felt this past few days. i can list the sights, which i will, and use my limited vocabulary to express how it was to be in those places.
the salt planes and lagunas of the bolivian andes by jeep, beautiful white and green lagunas, covered in flourescent flamingoes,with red mountains surroundings. daliesque landscapes for hours, i´ve seen smoking volcanoes, geysers bubbling like the bog of eternal stench and smoking eggy smelling sulphur.
barren dessert, rocky valleys. the feeling of being under the sea, as it once was, all the rocks facing south and underwater type plants everywhere.
and now, sitting outside a hotel made of salt, watching the sun rise over the huge salt flat of uyuni, mixing and reflecting the beautiful colours.
not only by the sights but the richness of the place, as the guide, hugo, said "las piedras tiene information" so much change and evolution passing without human interference or intervention and now the precious minerals all over being harvested along with electricity generated by the geysers pressure. its a gold mine that unfortunatly will reap very little of the benefits of.
the salt planes and lagunas of the bolivian andes by jeep, beautiful white and green lagunas, covered in flourescent flamingoes,with red mountains surroundings. daliesque landscapes for hours, i´ve seen smoking volcanoes, geysers bubbling like the bog of eternal stench and smoking eggy smelling sulphur.
barren dessert, rocky valleys. the feeling of being under the sea, as it once was, all the rocks facing south and underwater type plants everywhere.
and now, sitting outside a hotel made of salt, watching the sun rise over the huge salt flat of uyuni, mixing and reflecting the beautiful colours.
not only by the sights but the richness of the place, as the guide, hugo, said "las piedras tiene information" so much change and evolution passing without human interference or intervention and now the precious minerals all over being harvested along with electricity generated by the geysers pressure. its a gold mine that unfortunatly will reap very little of the benefits of.
Wednesday, May 03, 2006
bolivia begins
the standard of bus to the bolivian border goed down significantly and my heart races a little faster as people board the regularly stopping bus to sell food. trigo (wheat) is advertised on billboards meaning its becoming rarer and the ability to eat, for me, less rare.
the houses have shrunk and look more volatile, the plants more tropical and the people are darker. clearly at the north of argentina we begin to glimpse the poverty in bolivi, this brings everything painted more colourfully and the small % of indigenous people in argentina can be found here.
the roads are still good and i know for me that i have got used to the comforts again, but i long for the other type of travel, to see the other side from what i know once again and i fel sad that i will revel in how cheap life will be.
...
well the roads are now rocks and dust, the air is hot and thin and similar to guatamala, the ladies especially,are wearing thick woolen, colourful layers of clothes and bowler hats.
wrinkled dark skin, ribbon plaited hair and the stares and comments from the men as you walk down the road.
sleeping is impossible and the headache constant and the altitude is not at its worst yet.
my breakfast a bag of hot potatoes and thick chilli salsa costs the equivelant of 16p with a fresh orange juice.
the houses have shrunk and look more volatile, the plants more tropical and the people are darker. clearly at the north of argentina we begin to glimpse the poverty in bolivi, this brings everything painted more colourfully and the small % of indigenous people in argentina can be found here.
the roads are still good and i know for me that i have got used to the comforts again, but i long for the other type of travel, to see the other side from what i know once again and i fel sad that i will revel in how cheap life will be.
...
well the roads are now rocks and dust, the air is hot and thin and similar to guatamala, the ladies especially,are wearing thick woolen, colourful layers of clothes and bowler hats.
wrinkled dark skin, ribbon plaited hair and the stares and comments from the men as you walk down the road.
sleeping is impossible and the headache constant and the altitude is not at its worst yet.
my breakfast a bag of hot potatoes and thick chilli salsa costs the equivelant of 16p with a fresh orange juice.
bikes&wine take 2
the next day we kicked tejoncita out of our ride and left her in the hands of her reluctantly new adopted parents, the hostel staff.
as you can imagine the day was full of good wine, lots of sun, beautiful gourmet food and wonderful views, a dream.
with beautiful wines still caressing our palettes the drive back into town treated us with the dark sillohetted andes under scarred pink skies, infront multicoloured poplar trees lining the road on both sides, monets fascination with them i now understand.
as you can imagine the day was full of good wine, lots of sun, beautiful gourmet food and wonderful views, a dream.
with beautiful wines still caressing our palettes the drive back into town treated us with the dark sillohetted andes under scarred pink skies, infront multicoloured poplar trees lining the road on both sides, monets fascination with them i now understand.
bikes&wine in maipu (pronounced my poo)
well great plans go us up early to take the bus to the next town and hire some bikes to tour the brodegas, when eventually we found the bus we said goodbye to our little furry friend, tejoncita2 who had followed us from the hostel, and hopped on the bus. tejoncita had other plans, she jumped onto the bus and onto my lap, when the driver tried to remove her it would seem the foot and a half long dog had the determination of something much greater.
we arrived in maipu, friend in tow, to find we couldnt take her the next bus and couldnt leave her.
the days plan collapsed and a little confused and disorientated we went for food and a tour of a cheap bottle of wine in a restaurant instead.
when we were fed adn watered (in the jesus and weddings sense) we were ready to hassle taxis and buses to take us and our "well trained" dog back to mendoza. however at this point we acquired a new friend, this one could say his name so we couldn´t call him tejon. our new 70yr old friend proceeded to talk to talk to us about factories in germany and turkey and quiz us on our star signs.
this took an hour mas o menos before we could make our excuses, with the sympathetic and slightly mocking looks of the restaurant staff backingup our descision. however although not a tejon, this one was just as determined as the last. we found ourselves running away 3times from as sad and lonely and quite dissalussioned old man, i´ve not an ounce of self-respect left.
contuinuing our habbit of lying and excuses we managed to get tejoncita on the next bus by feigning ignorance and lack of understanding.
we arrived in maipu, friend in tow, to find we couldnt take her the next bus and couldnt leave her.
the days plan collapsed and a little confused and disorientated we went for food and a tour of a cheap bottle of wine in a restaurant instead.
when we were fed adn watered (in the jesus and weddings sense) we were ready to hassle taxis and buses to take us and our "well trained" dog back to mendoza. however at this point we acquired a new friend, this one could say his name so we couldn´t call him tejon. our new 70yr old friend proceeded to talk to talk to us about factories in germany and turkey and quiz us on our star signs.
this took an hour mas o menos before we could make our excuses, with the sympathetic and slightly mocking looks of the restaurant staff backingup our descision. however although not a tejon, this one was just as determined as the last. we found ourselves running away 3times from as sad and lonely and quite dissalussioned old man, i´ve not an ounce of self-respect left.
contuinuing our habbit of lying and excuses we managed to get tejoncita on the next bus by feigning ignorance and lack of understanding.
mendoza
well i made it out and headed for wine country, the home of beautiful malbecs and cabernet savigñon.
mendoza a city so easy to be in, where the pavements are as wide as the roads and full of tables and chairs and trees in lines. half the city is a park and the rest seems to be beautiful plazas and these breezy beautiful streets.
the park has a beautiful lake where rowing is practised and the anded rise up behind it.
they say if you don´t see the sun on any day in mendoza the hostels will give you your money back it may be just a saying but i never had a chance to find out.
mendoza a city so easy to be in, where the pavements are as wide as the roads and full of tables and chairs and trees in lines. half the city is a park and the rest seems to be beautiful plazas and these breezy beautiful streets.
the park has a beautiful lake where rowing is practised and the anded rise up behind it.
they say if you don´t see the sun on any day in mendoza the hostels will give you your money back it may be just a saying but i never had a chance to find out.
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