Into the desert

29/12/10

Hot, bright, dusty desert sun and everything matching. Sand walls, sand floors, sand forts.

Jaisalmer

Up into the sandstone fort and along the winding lanes and alleys in search of Bobby, not only famous for henna and massage but for her vibrant character. As you weave in and out you can ask anyone where Bobby's is, they all know and no one acts surprised that you walk past countless other henna and massage parlours without a glance. She sits cross-legged amongst a myriad of beautiful handwoven textiles of every colour and design, her smile fills the room, her laugh oozes out of the room and into the alleys and bounces around the ancient forts outer walls, second only to my sisters wonderful guffaw.

This women is strong and courageous, kind and intelligent. She is brutally honest in her opinions of arranged marriage and the mistreatment of women in marriage and when widowed. Her shop sells the produce of women from her village who have no education. She provides them with some income, advice, shelter in the rains and to me an example second to none.

Everyday in India I contemplate what a privilege it is to be here at this time, it feels so precious and in such a state of flux. Older travellers revisiting say the change is so evident already but to me there is still so much of the ancient, fragile and fading as it is. Bobby, though fully entrenched in the overbearing tourist trade, reminds me that change can be positive as she talks of more children being educated and berating their fathers violent behaviour towards their mothers. With good education and more role models like Bobby change doesn't seen so ugly.